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Missing a shift car2/9/2024 ![]() Since the rod and the lollipop rod are both flat pieces of metal, I don't get how adjustments here translate into adjustments to the rotation, or left/right movement of the shifter. ![]() That adjustment seems to be mostly just for shortening or lengthening the effective length of the rod, so I can see how it would adjust whether things are going into gears when you move the shift knob forwards and backwards (one of my adjustments had it too 'long' so that it wouldn't stay in 4th for instance, because there wasn't enough 'pull' left). There is only one place to adjust the linkage that I'm aware of, that being where the shift rod connects to the lollipop. Sounds good in theory, but I'm missing something in practice? I'll try and add a foto as the old pictures are gone. This stud, used in conjunction with the factory stud at the "4 o'clock position" will usually center the transmission's input shaft perfectly into the clutch plate. I also used an "alignment stud" at the "2 o'clock position" made from a 12 x 1.25 bolt with the head cut off and a slot sawed into the end to unscrew it. ![]() I installed my trans alone one day in about 1/2 hour using this method. The trans weighs about 91 pounds and the pulley system (or an engine hoist, cherry-picker style) is really the way to go. Rudy's photos show a floor jack but its not needed really. and roll the car fore and aft, to get the trans where I wanted it. I could then position the trans right or left. A second time I installed two bike hooks horizontally on the ceiling across the back of the car, then made a ROPE GANTRY between them. From all the YouTube videos that I have seen, it appears a rather straight forward job to make a simple trans bench testing setup.I used a bike hook into a rafter and a 2 or 3/1 pulley and went straight up and down with it above the car. Would you agree that he could pronounce the trans in good working order just by a very through visual inspection and also that the very sloppy shifting would have caused the grinding?Īlso, I want to bench test the trans. He told me that I should button it up and put it back in the car. First that the grinding of the gears was probably the result of the missing shift lever bush, and next that it looked like the transmission had been rebuilt because all the gears and the syncrows looked very good. Next, with the side inspection cover off and the gear selectors removed, I took the transmission to a fellow in town who really is a Guru on all things vintage British cars. The shifting on the bench was now tight and crisp. I replaced the Bush with a new one and temporarily put the side cover on the transmission. At the bottom of the case was the two halves of the Bush for the shift lever and part of the circlip that held the halves together around the ball at the bottom of the shift lever. When I removed the side cover it was obvious what the problem of the very sloppy shifting was. Well it seemed to me that I had no choice but to remove the transmission and have it opened up and reinspected again. Worse yet, if I wasn’t very careful shifting between gears, it would grind. I recently took my BT7 out for a short test drive and everything went well except that the shifting was very sloppy and I had trouble finding the gears. Well in fact I did have it inspected by someone who was billed as an expert on British classic transmissions and he gave it a clean bill of health. Now you might be asking yourself why I did not have the transmission inspected before it was reinstalled in the car. Relying on his statement, I installed the transmission in the car at the appropriate stage of the restoration. Needless to say it was very difficult to communicate with him but he did state that he had the transmission was recently rebuilt. When I purchased my 61 BT7 from a friend who had to sell the car because of a severe stroke.
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